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Tym says
Hi Sir,
I’m a hobbyist, thanks a lot for the circuit and help recently you gave me.
Can I ask you to recommend some good basic electronics books and websites, I want to learn from the basics to engineering level, I know I should go to electronic engineering colleges but my bad nervous system does not allow me, so the books and the web are the only sources for me. But this is just my hobby and not my carrier.
Thank you so much.
Swagatam says
I am glad to help you Tym.
Unfortunately I do not have an article which presents a step by step tutorial for the newcomers.
But you can learn from this website by asking questions to me and I will guide you with the procedures.
You can start with transistors first, and a god first project could be a relay driver circuit as explained in the following article:
Transistor Relay Driver Circuit with Formula and Calculations
Next, I will tell you how to replace the relay with other loads like an LED
Tym says
Thanks a lot Sir, I will learn from your links but I can’t study at a regular time because of my home works and my bad health, so should i contact to your facebook messenger to be convenient?because it is busy to find old comments and they are always growing in this page. And I want to ask another two questions,
1. What will be your advice to learn from below link, is it worth for my times and effort? because some are just theory and/or give no idea for pratical.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/
2. Can you recommend me good basic ebooks or pdf, etc.? because I really want to learn step by step from the basic, please help me.
Swagatam says
You are welcome Tym,
Unfortunately answering consistently on facebook will be difficult for me since I am mostly busy answering to blog comments.
The content on the link is good but it might take many years for you to learn them and finally build a circuit, so we should go the opposite way. That is build small circuits directly by learning the bare basics.
If you search online “learn electronics circuits basics” then probably you will come across many good resources which you can refer to, but again these are very elaborate and might require many years of learning to master them. So it is always good to go the practical way, and learn and troubleshoot as you make mistakes, which can be a lot of fun.
Tym says
OK Sir, so I will learn from this place.
I like your practical way and I also don’t want to be long many years just by reading but I’m reading basic books available in my Mother Language though they are not that good, so I have to Google some good resources for reference and in case of need.
So, I will report after studying the first transistor relay driver circuit.
Thanks a lot.
Swagatam says
Sure, no problem.
Feel free to contact if you have any further question or doubts….. I will try to solve it for you.
Chris says
Hello, Swagatam. I built an inverter using the IC sg3524, it worked pretty well but I’m having issues trying to build a filter for the inverter, because it geneates a loud humming sound when used with some loads like a fan for instance. I tried using a 1.5uf 400v capacitor in parallel with the output of the inverter, it helped a bit but became less effective as I increased the load on the inverter. Please help me out with a more effective filter circuit.
2. Could a filter be added around the Pin 11 and 14 of the sg3524? (That is before the MOSFETs gate).
If possible I’d also love a circuit of such a filter.
If any of the above ideas would work perfectly I’ll use them. Help me out. Thank you.
Swagatam says
Hello Chris,
Unfortunately an LC or capacitive filter cannot be added on the MOSFET side of the inverter, it can be added only on the output side of the transformer. You can try increasing the capacitor value to 3uF/400V and check the response. However increasing the capacitor value will also mean some power getting wasted through the capacitor.
Marcelo Russi says
Hi Swagatam, I’m developing an electronic mouse trap. I tried to use one of your circuits, from the alcohol dispenser, but I didn’t get success because I don’t have much experience with circuits like that. I only use arduinos and so. I would like to use an 18650 battery, an ldr that triggers a relay for 1 minute and then turns off. The relay must drive a high voltage generator purchased off-the-shelf on ebay, using the same battery. After that, a flashing LED is on to warn that a shot has been fired. As the battery produces from 3.3v to 4.2v I can’t use the 555. I understand that using a simple circuit the battery consumption in stand by would be minimal. I would be very grateful if you could help me.
Swagatam says
Hi Marcelo,
When a light beam on an LDR is blocked by the by rat, it triggers ON a relay for 1 minute, this will be the basic working of the circuit. However this cannot be perfectly built using transistors. You will have to use the IC 555 for this. You can use the CMOS version of the IC 555 which is 7555, and these can work with 3V also. The relay will also need to be rated at 3V
Hennie says
Hi Swagatam, I have a request from a customer to build this circuit for him. Please help me with the function of the 1N4148 diode connected in reverse from pin 2& 6 (connected together) on NE 555 ic to VCC.
I assume this is to discharge the capacitor? Not sure though. Your kind assistance will be appreciated.
I have the circuit diagram ,but not sure where to upload it.
Thank you.
Hennie.
Swagatam says
You are right Hennie, those diodes help to determine whether the capacitor needs to charge faster or discharge faster depending on the setting of the associated potentiometer. This in turn decides how the output pulse widths are adjusted.
You can find a few of these circuits explained in the following article:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/ic-555-oscillator-alarm-and-siren-circuits/
Omotoso Daniel says
My name is Daniel, am a beginner and I have gain a lot from this site. You are doing great thank you.
Mehtab says
Dear Sir,
Kindly help us on the design of smps based electrofusion welding machine.
Output: 40-45V DC
Current: 60A max
Swagatam says
Sorry, Mehtab, I do not have a 60 amp SMPS circuit with me at this moment.
Malc says
Following your previous help with my “Touch switch” circuit, I built up the circuit using one of the 4050 ICs on a breadboard using one of the gates as per your diagram and it worked OK. However when the touch pads were merely touched they did not operate, the fingers had to be wet to switch the gate. This is not a problem, I used switches instead and all was well. I did find that when the circuit was switched off then on again the LED lit, this was useful as it saved me having to use separate switches to light up all LEDs, powering up the circuit would light up all LEDs and I could cancel the required LEDs with their individual switches, great, that would do what I wanted.
Before building a permanent circuit I decided to add another LED to one of the other gates using the same capacitor/ resistor / switch configuration as the previous gate. The on / off switches worked well as before, but this time when the circuit is powered up the LEDs do not always light up. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don’t, the results are very hit & miss. A time delay before powering up again seems to help – sometimes. I have also tried switching the +Volt and the -V rails individually and again, hit & miss results. I am concerned that introducing more gates will only add to the problem. Can you suggest a reason / remedy for this ?
Swagatam says
The circuit is actually quite basic so we cannot expect too much from it, there may be some downsides in the design which can be difficult to rectify.
You can perhaps try adding a resistor and capacitor network to the positive supply line of the IC. Meaning, you can add a 220 ohm resistor in series with the positive supply line and add a 470uF capacitor right across +/- terminals of the IC, this will allow a slow start to the DC supply input and hopefully help to eliminate the hit or miss issue.
You can also experiment with C1 and see if that helps to correct the issue
Fabio says
Hello,
I have a question to this post https://www.homemade-circuits.com/tachometer-using-arduino/.
I want to build a tachometer but I don’t have an arduino, instead I have my own type of card with an Atmega16 and I’m programming in Microchip Studio. The main problem is, that I can’t use the function millis(), could you show me how I should programm the timer of the Atmega16 to get the same result?
Thanks for your help.
Fabio
Swagatam says
Sorry, my microcontroller knowledge is not good, so it is difficult for me to answer the question.
Len says
I am just learning about uni-junction transistors. With all of the information that I have read about them, I have not seen anything about whether there are n-type and p-type devices. For example, would one type be controlled by a negative or positive input voltage if there are the two types of devices. Len.
Swagatam says
Unijunction transistors work like oscillators, they do not have N-type or P-type classification.
You can see some example circuits in the following article:
10 Simple Unijunction Transistor (UJT) Circuits Explained
Swagatam says
Thank you Prashant, Glad you liked this site!
I will surely help.
But first I want to know the LED specifications. You said it is bi-color, so does the LEDs have 3 pin? Also what is the current specifications of the LEDs, are they 20 mA rated or higher??
Since each LED must get 3.3 V for proper illumination, that means if you connect 218 in series would require 218 x 3.3 = 719 volts which looks impossible to get.
The maximum voltage that can we can derive from a low current AC supply is 310V, so the LEDs will need to be configured in strings, each string having 310 / 3.3 = 93 LEDs. Keeping some margin, we can use strings of 90 LEDs each.
I will design it for you once I get the full specifications of the LEDs.
Mathew says
Hello, based on the name – where are you based TN or Kerala?
Do you build industrial power solutions – looking for a single phase 110V to three phases 208V converter – current can be < 3 amps.
Thanks
Mathew
Swagatam says
Hello, I am located in Mumbai. Sorry, due to lack of time it can be difficult for me to accept external assignments.
genie225 says
Hello, I have finally fix my ATX power power supply over current protection problem. Can you help with a circuit. I want to use a voltage regulator 7824 to convert the output 12v to 24v. But the 7824 don’t support more than. Is it possible to put 20 transistor 7824 in serie for a high current support, And include the TIP36 in the circuit with a current limiting circuit for the load. The load current increase when it getting hot I want to limit it to 20a because of the power supply.
Target: supply 24v with a high current and circuit protection (pwm) with a ATX power supply.
Thank you
Swagatam says
Hi, 7824 cannot be used to convert 12V to 24V.
Your question is not very clear so I am finding it difficult to understand.
Genie225 says
Hello,
I have convert 2 power supply atx ( Liteon Ps-5301-08HF and Dell F255E-00 ) to power 2 loads on 12v each PS. After 30mn the first off and 5mn latter the 2nd off. When I on it now without load it run but it off when I put load. How can I resolve this fault. Is anyway to reset the current protection.
The 12v current rating of the Liteon ps-5301-08HF is 19A max, 300watt and the 12 current rating of the dell ps- F255E-00 is 17A. I have not bypass the current protection and I use each PS separately. The load current is 15a his and increase when he getting hot.
Thank you to help me solve this.
Swagatam says
Sorry, it may be difficult to solve your problem, because it is related to the internal circuitry of the ATX which will need to be checked practically.
Tym says
Sorry, I forgot one thing, battery voltage is 4.2V when fully charged.
Swagatam says
You can try the transistorized current limiter version, as given in the previous link.
Tym says
Hi,
I’m searching for a constant current led driver circuit with good efficiency to drive parallel 10 pieces of 5730 LEDs at 700mA, LED forward voltage drop is around 3.2V, power source is a 1800mAh 18650 battery,
a TP4056 module(with battery protection) is used. I don’t like series resistor because of dimming after some minutes, and I can accept shorter running time. Can you help me please?
Swagatam says
Hi,
I have an article which explains a few constant current limiter circuits for LEDs. You can optimize one of them to match your requirements. Here’s the link:
2 Best Current Limiter Circuits Explained
Tym says
Hello, thanks a lot for the circuits.
I want to use transistor version but I don’t know which transistor part numbers to use for my low voltage input and for possible lowest power dissipation, and if possible I prefer mosfets for their efficiency.
Input voltage ≤ 4.2V (18650 battery)
Led Vf = 3.2V
Total Led current = 700mA
Can you help me please?
Swagatam says
MOSFET will not work with 4.2V, so you will have to use a BJT based current limiter circuit.
For T1 you can use TIP31, and for T2 you can use 2N2222
CARLOS MONTENEGRO says
I AM INTERESTED IN THE RF signal jammer circuit AND OTHER TYPES OF CIRCUITS FOR MAKING JAMMING DEVICES. DO YOU HAVE A COURSE OR BOOK THAT I CAN LEARN THIS? THANK YOU CARLOS
Swagatam says
I appreciate your interest and hope you succeed with the project, however I do not have a detailed course book for this at this moment.
Carlos Carrera says
Greetings!!
I need to reduce a variable input voltage from 9V to 60V to 3.3V.
The circuit will receive a pulse from 9V to 60V, this pulse will trigger a digital pin of the ESP32 which will make it perform a function.
Sir can you help me.
Thank you very much in advance!!
Swagatam says
Hi Carlos, are you looking for a 60 V to 3.3 V buck converter circuit?
DavidH says
Hi, I am looking for someone to design simple high efficient voltage regulator with ATX terminals.
input 12V PCIe 8 pin cable used for powering power hungry GPUs and convert it to Molex 4 pin connector with 12 & 5V…which can be used with any commercially available Molex extension or Molex/SATA adapter cables.
It is for a 100+ HDDs hobby server project. I do not want it for free, but I need electronic engineer hacker ready for challenge. So far, I have contacted at least 5 people…everybody says “no problem, send the details”, and never reply 😀
If you are interested, please contact me via email. I will send you all details/requirements.
thanks DavidH
Swagatam says
Hi, I am not sure about the pinouts of the cables that you are suggesting, however 12V and 5V regulators could be built using buck converters. Buck converter would be required because making 12V, and 5V regulators using linear ICs like 7812 and 7805 can cause a lot of heat dissipation and that wouldn’t be efficient.
DavidH says
Hi Swagatam, thanks for reply. I have full details in PDF, but I cannot find an engineering able to design it :o)
Is it possible to hire you, please?
Swagatam says
I am sorry David, that might not be possible due to lack of time. I can only help with general circuit ideas. Solving elaborate circuit queries can be difficult for me.
Malc says
Hi Swagalam,
Sorry, it’s Malc again. Re: my question on switching 9 outputs, I also intended to ask whether this would be easier / possible using an Arduino ? I have an Arduino Uno and a fair bit of compatible kit but not great when it comes to the code.
Swagatam says
Hi Malc,
For 9 LEDs, you will have to use 9 such gates using two ICs. Yes using Arduino may be possible but my Arduino knowledge is not good, so it will be difficult for me to solve it for you.
Malc says
Hi Swagatam, thanks again for your super fast reply. I will look into the possibilities of both ideas. I have access to the usual Arduino forums etc. so it should keep me out of mischief for a while. Thanks again for you input.
Swagatam says
It’s my pleasure Malc, all the best to you!
Malc says
I am trying to construct a touch switch circuit to switch 9 LEDs on and off independently. I have managed to switch a single LED on and off using a 555 IC connected as a touch on/off switch and this worked well. Obviously I could use 9 of the 555 ICs to achieve this but it seems a clumsy way of doing it. Is there an IC capable of switching 9 outputs independently, or perhaps doing the job with 2 ICs ? I would be grateful for you help / advice.
Swagatam says
That may be possible if two switches are allowed for each LED. One touch switch for ON and the other for OFF operation.
Here’s one simple design that you can try. A single gate from the IC 4050 has been used here. Each 4050 contains 6 such gates, therefore 6 LEDs could be operated independently using a single 4050 IC:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/simple-flip-flop.jpg
Malc says
Many thanks for your prompt reply. Your suggestion looks good. I will certainly give it a try. Thanks again.
Malc
Swagatam says
Sure, No problem!
Hamoud says
I would like you to help me to design a circuit for controlling the speed of electric motor to use it driving car instead of fuel engine.
Swagatam says
What is the specifications of the motor?
Khalid says
Thank you very very much
Arthur Wright says
Hi. I am rebuilding a caravan in the UK and want to have a portable solar panel to support the various 12v equipment I’m having. My problem is finding the right sized solar panel. I will be having a few 12v LED lights, a 1000W inverter, a small 12v/240v tv, a 12v fridge and some USB sockets for phone/lap top charging. I tried working out what the load would be on the LED’s but I don’t have a degree in electronics to understand what is being said online. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for this great service you are offering to know-nothings like me!
Swagatam says
Hi,thanks for your question! I understand your requirement, however for calculating the solar panel specifications we would first require the current and voltage specifications of the various loads. So, for example for the 12V LED we would need to know the current spec of the lEDs, then for the 1000 watt inverter we would need to know the DC voltage which the inverter would be using. Similarly, we would require the current specifications of the TV and the fridge.
Once we have the voltage and the current specifications of the loads we can then multiply the two values to get the wattages of the respective loads, and then add them together to evaluate the approximate specifications of the solar panel.
Arthur Wright says
Wow, thank you for such a speedy response! I think I might be able to finish the calculation off once I understand how to determine what the Wattage of the LED’s will be, which is the confusing bit. I will be having one set of 4 x 12v LED’s with a power rating of 0.4W and a current draw of 0.03Amp per light. I will also be having one pair of the same, together with 3 individually controlled light fittings. As you so very kindly asked, I will also be having a 12v/240v CRX80 Dometic Fridge rated at 48W with a rated current of 5.6A and 0.56A at 240v. The DC voltage for the inverter will be 12v. The 12v TV/DVD player will be approximately 36W with a power supply of DC 12v 3A. Also I was thinking I would need 2 leisure batteries…. Hope this is all you need. Regards..
Swagatam says
12V LED wattage will be
0.4 x 4 = 1.6 watts
0.4 x 2 = 0.8 watts
Fridge is 12V 48 watts
Inverter is 12V 1000 watts
TV is 12V 36 watt
Total wattage becomes = 1086 watts or simply 1100 watts
For all these loads working together, you will require a solar panel with an approximate specification of 15V, 1200 watts
Arthur Wright says
Oh! That would be impossible for me as I wanted to hook up a portable solar panel and thought a 100Watt one would do. Inverters are used to convert DC to AC current, correct? If so, to run something like a microwave, I would need a 1200W solar panel, which is impractical with a caravan, so how do people do that? Sorry to go on, but the more I find out, the less I know…
Swagatam says
For operating a 1200 watt load you will have to have a 1200 watt power source, right? There’s no other alternative for this. The power has to come from somewhere, in your case it is a solar panel…so the panel has to be rated at 1200 watts. It is indeed impractical to run a 1200 watt load in a caravan.
Arthur Wright says
Thank you for your help. This is such a difficult area for me to understand, having no knowledge in electrics, but you saved my bacon! You are a real gem!
Swagatam says
It’s my pleasure Arthur. Glad to help!
A. Selnik says
I have a “Kidde” detector in my living room and it takes batteries. There is a “First Alert” smoke detector in the bedroom. It does not take batteries. Instead it is connected to wiring in the wall. It gets its electrical power from the house current. After it detects a fire it sends a signal through the wire to a phone box in the basement and the fire department is contacted. Are either of these alarms an ultrasonic alarm? Thank You.
Swagatam says
It can be difficult to tell without practically seeing the device. It can be based on an ultrasonic sensor or maybe a standard smoke/gas sensor
Tun says
Good evening sir,
Sir you have deleted a post based on hho gas generator, what happened sir?, and can I have the schematic or the pdf for the project?
Swagatam says
Hi Tun, actually it is dangerous to generate HHO gas at home, that is why I deleted that post. You can check the following post and use the set up to generate the HHO gas using 220V DC. But remember this set up is also dangerous and you would be doing it at your own risk:
How to Generate Pure Oxygen and Hydrogen at Home
karl says
Thank you, Sir. Your reply was corroborating what I was thinking in my head. I cut my teeth in the days of vacuum tubes, but obviously made the transition to solid state devices many decades ago.
I was recently monkeying around with a circuit for a Unipolar Stepper Motor controller, and came upon the fact that since the ends of the four coils were tied to IGFETs, the two ‘high’ side leads had to go to a ‘switch’ to shut off the current when the motor was not being energized. The obvious solution was to use a high-gain PNP power transistor (TIP12x) as the source, but then I was thinking about making sure that this transistor was guaranteed to be cut-off when the motor wasn’t being powered. In this case, it seemed logical to ensure that the transistor was biased off, especially since the motor is part of a machine, and the mechanics & control of the machine cause the overall electrical environment to be somewhat noisy. I just want assurance that I was thinking along the correct pathway by using a cut-off resistor. As I previously stated, I saw many instances where a PNP transistor was used in a current source, and there was no bias resistor included. This disturbed my logical thinking.
So, again ….. THANK YOU for your reply. There is no need now for you to reply to me. I appreciate your feedback.
karl t.
Swagatam says
Thank you Karl, for your detailed explanation, I appreciate it a lot. All the best to you.
Amit says
Are you available for freelance consulting?
Swagatam says
I am available through comments on this blog. You can ask your questions, if possible I will try to solve it for you.
Val says
Hi Swagatham
In one of your blogs showing the circuit for proximity sensors using IC 741 what is the value of the pot used and which is the transmitter IR LED and which is the Receiver led it’s only mentioned as IR led and Photodiode led, I’m all confused which is which
I have two IR LEDS one is dark colour (Receiver)and one is clear (emitter)
Appreciate a reply along with the link for this blog
I tried out this circuit with a 10k pot but it does not activate the relay with motion in front of the IR LEDS
Swagatam says
Hi Val,
I have updated the diagram with the relay and all the other details in the following post:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/simple-proximity-sensor-circuit/
Marc Soldner says
Hi, I was looking over your SG3525 circuits. Nice work. I was thinking about building a Peaking Power system to augment a portable generator set output with a solar-battery system, during short high-power demand periods. To connect the inverter to an already operating generator set there are three issues to consider, Voltage, Frequency and Phase. Setting voltage first and then frequency second is not too challenging using the SG3525 invertor with some smart adaptations (Arduino). Comparing the phase for synchronization and relay lock the systems together is a bit more interesting. Have you done anything like this, or have any ideas where to point me for study.
Swagatam says
Hi, thank you for liking my work, appreciate it.
However the question you have asked looks too complex for me, I haven’t yet done any work on this concept.
Marc Soldner says
Thanks for your reply. If I have any luck I will share it with you.
Swagatam says
Sure, no problem!
karl says
Thank you, sir, for your corroborating reply. The reason I asked this question is because in many general load-switching circuits that I’ve seen, some show a ‘cut-off’ bias resistor going from a positive supply rail to the base of a PNP transistor, acting as a switch. Other times not. So, I was wondering whether this was laziness, frugality, forgetfulness, or just plainly unnecessary. In biased circuits where there is an AC component for amplification or switching, it’s understandable to set up the transistor as an emitter-follower to allow for the full excursion of the signal, but with the simple off-on scenario, I wasn’t sure.
Finally, would you suggest a typical % range of values, or just a ‘hard’ range ….. let’s say for a typical 2N3906 class, and maybe either a 5v or 12v pos. rail, would you recommend 100K ohms, more or less?
Thanks again.
karl
Swagatam says
Thank you karl!
Even if you don’t connect the base emitter resistor still the transistor will remain cut off during the absence of a base signal. However, without the base emitter resistor the transistor base could be floating and attract stray signals from the atmosphere and might go into conduction mode…that is why it sometimes becomes crucial to add the base emitter resistor just to make sure the transistor remains perfectly cut off while there’s no input signal at its base. Typically any value above 100K will work fine, although it depends on the existing base transistor with which this base/emitter resistor forms a resistive divider.
Val says
Hi Swagatham
I’ve sent you three diagrams based on your circuits and discussions to you email as I don’t have multimedia and I request you to see if they are ok and will work out
Also need the values of the components used in the first transmitter circuit and which of the two is better
Thanks & all the best
Swagatam says
Hi Val,
I have answered to all your previous questions, you can check them out
karl says
Simple question, maybe?
When using a PNP transistor in a source mode, does it make sense to put a large value resistor from Vcc to the base as a ‘cut-off’ source,
or is this just a waste of money by adding an unnecessary component to a typical circuit?
Swagatam says
Adding a capacitor from positive supply to the base of a PNP transistor will not cut off the transistor, it will create a momentary switch ON/OFF delay for the transistor
karl says
Mr. Swagatam,
My question was not about putting a capacitor between the Emitter & base of a PNP transistor; it was about putting a high value resistor between the base & emitter of a PNP transistor when the transistor is being used as a high side switch. The emitter is connected to the voltage rail, the collector connected to a load (relay coil, LED, etc.), and the base is connected to an active low signal through a base current-limiting resistor.
thank you.
Swagatam says
I am sorry, I misread your comment. Actually, yes it is a good idea to keep a high value resistor between base/emitter of a transistor regardless of whether it is a PNP or an NPN. It ensures that the base of the transistor is never floating in the absence of a base signal.
Val says
How do I insert the circuit in this post
Val says
Hi Swagatham
I have this sensorTSOP 1738 and tried it out with a remote control the led is normally ON and when I press any button on the remote control the led goes off.
What transmitter circuit should I use so that when interrupted it turns the led off and instead of the led can it activate a relay circuit that you can suggest
Swagatam says
Sorry Val for all the trouble, you cannot inert the images in this website….I was actually suggested you to post your comments with images on my social media accounts such as facebook, facebook-page, Instagram etc, whose links are given above.
I hope you will not mind this.
Val says
Thanks Swagatham for your reply
I don’t have any of the media like Facebook etc
I’ve seen a post of a similar circuit I shall try it but I want to know what transmitter circuit should I use to keep it in a mode that when the signal is interrupted it should trigger the relay on
The transmitter and receiver should be about 6 to 8 feet apart
Marcel says
Please I want to know how to write a code using assembly language programming that will get an input from ultrasonic sensor and send it’s output to a gsm module and 16X2 LCD.
Swagatam says
I wish I could help you, however my programming knowledge itself is not good, therefore it would be difficult for me to help you in this regard
Marcel says
Okay Sir…. Thank you.
Swagatam says
Can you please provide the exact link of the article that you are referring to?
Ahmed Amen says
Hi! Mr. Swagatam
OK, I see your concern that you are busy.
I am very thankful that you allow me to use your design. And I also very pleased for your deep kindness that you are also interested to help me in technical matters.I end u some question on quora hope u could help me
Swagatam says
Thank you Ahmed, I am always glad to help. Can you please repeat the question which you asked on Quora, if it’s possible I will try to help.
Ahmed Amen says
Can I use that one ☝️ DC Adapter (12 v 2A )to charge 2 of those batteries (6 v 7.0AH/20HR) connected together? If yes how long time would it take to full charged?
Swagatam says
If you connect the two 6V batteries in series then it will require 14V input DC for charging them, the 12V adapter cannot be used for charging the two 6V batteries in series.
Ahmed Amen says
Thank U For Your Kindness So What If I Separate Them And Try To Charge Them One By One Would It Work To Conect The 12 V Dc Adapter To a One 6 V Baterry . I Have Another Question I Had Some Contents Parts Which I Dont Know What Is It And What Is It Used Fore But I Dont Know How To Show U Its Pictures , Can U Tell Me How To Show U It
Ahmed Amen says
I sent u it’s pix on messages on Twitter
Hope u tell me more about them
Swagatam says
Yes, you can use the 12V to charge the 6V batteries separately through a LM317 voltage regulator power supply. Just make sure to adjust the output voltage of the 317 to exactly 7V, and then apply this 7V to your 6V battery.
I checked the images that you sent me on twitter account….however unfortunately I could not figure them out, they look like they are some kind of varistors or MOVs.
Swagatam says
Thank you for your advice. I have already provided sufficient warnings in the article regarding the dangers of using capacitive non isolated power supply, and I have also suggested that the circuit must be properly insulated while using.
By the way none of the string light circuits I have seen in the market today use isolated DC, they all use AC mains and are thoroughly insulated to ensure the necessary safety to the users.
Cal Tiger says
Hi, your article on Smartcars and Arduiono is very valuable. I am a former Electronics Engineer working on a proof of concept for smartphone operated door and ignition locks. I have sent you a FB connect request. Pls add me on FB.
Thanks.
Swagatam says
Hi, Thanks, Glad to know about you…I have accepted your friends request.
Dawit says
Hi! Mr. Swagatam
OK, I see your concern that you are busy.
I am very thankful that you allow me to use your design. And I also very pleased for your deep kindness that you are also interested to help me in technical matters.
I am preparing things and thank you again for your great wish that I will be success.
with Best Regards!!
Dawit
Swagatam says
You are most welcome Dawit…
Claudio says
Dear Swag, I’m Claudio… ;-)… excuse me… could you imagine other features of inductor?… furthermore… someone thinks that the duty cycle should be in microsec order… what do you think about a ne555 flip-flop with 2n3055 to bear the high extracurrent? Bye
Swagatam says
Hi Claudio 😉 Could you please tell me which schematic or concept are you referring to? I’ll try to answer to your query…
Claudio says
Hi Swag..;-)… I’m sorry… I’m referring to a simple schematic about the «cold electricity»… in the free energy section…
Swagatam says
OK got it, yes you can try a IC 555 based oscillator for creating the collapsing the magnetic field, and subsequently cold electricity, however I am not sure what frequency would be ideal for this operation…
Claudio says
…ok.. but for the inductor?… its features is very vague… ;-(… can u help us? Thanx
Swagatam says
I can help only once I test these concepts practically, I may do it sometime soon and will update the results here for sure…
Dawit says
Hi! Mr. Swagatam
I am Dawit and Electrical Engineer
I have been working in different industries by giving maintenance for different electrical control system. Now when I come with your site and see your creative works I realy appreciated you and I have been myself ignited to such works and turn them to a business in home based. of course, I have not yet facilities for such production. What do you suggest me to have, and toward degree would you cooperate me to such manufacturing and turn them to business if it is your interest to work with your design works. In our country, Ethiopia, a lot of your works have business. for example home air ionizer would have a lot business In our gas polluted town Addis Ababa.
Thank you in advance for your attention
Dawit
dave4me60@gmail.com
I
Swagatam says
Hi Dawit,
I appreciate your offer and enthusiasm, you can feel free to use my designs for manufacturing and doing business in your country, however I personally wouldn’t be able to cooperate in this venture with you, because I am already too busy with many assignments here, so getting involved with any external business would be difficult.
Anyway I Wish you all the success! Let me know if you need any help regarding any technical matters, I’ll be happy to help!
ERNTEC says
Dear Swag,
Please help design for me an instructable UNIVERSAL SMPS for High Power Amplifier voltage ranging from +/- 50v to +/-100v Dc.
Thanks.
Swagatam says
Dear Erntec, I am sorry I am not good with designing SMPS circuits, therefore presently it won’t be possible for me to help you in this regard..
Nkwenti says
Thank you very much for replying sir.
Is ok if you can give me the digital clock without the date, But will the time be set to work both French and English time?
As for the link you sent, thanks very much but now my question is, if i assemble the circuit, can it be connected to the CDI as it is then the car speed be set to certain frequency? if yes then good, it will even be good because i can use one of the leds to energize a transistor as a switch then start to think of what to do next…
i look forward to read from you and thanks a lot.
Nkwenti.
Swagatam says
Hi Nkwenti, I have a few digital clock circuits but I am not not sure whether translation may be possible or not? You can see them below
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/arduino-digital-clock-using-rtc-module/
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/7-segment-digital-clock-circuit-using/
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/digital-clock-circuit-using-arduino-and/
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/simple-digital-clock-circuit-explained/
Yes definitely, you can use the earlier referred link to detect CDI spark rate and accordingly set the corresponding output from IC LM3915 to trigger a transistor stage for controlling the CDI
Deogratia says
Dear sir.
Hope all is well with you, i must take my time to first of all appreciate all your good efforts and help you offer from your website,
i have enjoyed a lot from your website, but i came accross a project from your website and i wonder if you can help do some modifications so that i can use it as my test projects coming up, i am basic but to build any circuit i have no problems doing that.
i came accross a circuite under auto-mobile projects, the car speed indicator, dear sir, is there any way you can modify the circuit in such a way that, when the CDI gives signal about you over speeding, a circuit automatically stops your engine for at least 5minutes?
Then as for the other help i will ask you is that, i am in need of a digital clock schematic that has date/month and time, if the digital clock can indicate time in French and English it would be excelent.
thanks for your understandings and i will be looking forward to be reading from you.
Nkwenti.
Swagatam says
Thank you Nkwenti,
I am sorry I do not have the digital clock circuit with month date, but you can perhaps find through a Google search.
For the car speedometer cDI controller you could try the following concept:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/10-led-tachometer-circuit/
From the 10th LED or 9th LED of LM3915, an IC 555 monostable could be added whose output could be integrated with the CDI for stopping it as soon as the sequence reached these LEDs.
You can first verify the above circuit then I will proceed and tell you how to configure the IC 555 monostable.
Andreaas says
Thank you very much. I’ll try it out a.s.a.p.
What is the difference in power consumption between the first and second iteration of this design?
I’m probably being a pain, but can you give a breadboard illustration of both circuits. Or maybe a link to a VBB design.
Swagatam says
You are welcome Andreas.
I won’t recommend a breadboard assembly. This must be firmly assembled and tested on a veroboard, by soldering.
Secondly the resistors involved with the LDR transistor will require some tweaked until the desired results are achieved.
This circuit will not consume anything while it is in the standby mode…
Andreaas says
Thank you, I have made the circuit with both designs….555 and bjt, had to play around a lot to get both working because of the difference in ldr’s. I added a cell phone to the setup with a relay connected to the dial button. Now I want to add a power failure backup utilising the cell phone’s own battery and over charge protection and also add a comparator circuit to both ldr’s, so a would be thief cannot just shine his own laser to disable the system.
I would very much appreciate if you could maybe start a new post incorporating all these ideas into one circuit. I see you have a few other circuits that use some of these individually, but not one “fully incorporated” system.
Again, thank you very much for you patience and all your help.
Swagatam says
I am glad you could make it successfully. In order to make the design foolproof you could probably try making the opamp based circuit explained in the following concept:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-build-dual-solar-tracker-system/
the shown motor could be relaced with an alarm, now if the intruder tried to balance the LdRs artificially he would fail drastically causing the hooter blow of.
Andreaas says
Thank you, you have been soooooooo much help.
I looked at the circuit you suggested sorry….I struggle a bit still with learning electronics…..how do I tie this into the 555 circuit, does pin 1 and 7 of the op amps go to pin 2 of the 555 as trigger?
Swagatam says
You are welcome Andreas, sorry I did not get, which IC 555 stage are you referring to? the suggested LM324 will not require any other circuit, it has two LDRs which can be used with the laser for getting a foolproof implementation.
Andreaas says
Hi Swagatam,
I made your smart alarm system that a guy from South Africa proposed recently and I really love the idea. Btw, i’m also from South Africa slightsmile emoticon ( the laser alarm system with two ldr’s,
“Smart Laser Alarm Protection Circuit using IC 555”)
I was wondering if you would be able to expand on the idea as follows :
I would like for the system to have a back up battery, so that it is tamper proof and also wanted to know if the same result could somehow be achieved without using the 555 as it is very power hungry.
Also, if you could incorporate a potentiometer or something so that the light intensity can be adjusted on the ldr’s. I am planning on putting mirrors around an area of 4 meters by 2 meters square for the system and the laser light is quite diminished by the time it has gone around that whole area.
If possible, could you also let me know what a “kit” like this would cost.
(Sent you message on Facebook, not sure if you got it, so sorry if i’m repeating the same 😉 )
Swagatam says
Hi Andreas, I am glad you could make the project successfully.
I have noted the improvements suggested by you, and will try to update the article with the modified design soon.
Andreaas says
Thank you 🙂
Another question, if i may…..
Could one include various RC combinations and toggle them with a sweeper switch? I.e. 10 second RC combination, 30 second and 1 minute on a 3 pin sweeper switch so that you can choose the duration that the alarm will sound?
Also, which changes would one have to make to include a gsm combination as in one of your other posts or can one just tie the one you made in on the pin three of this circuit?
Again……Thank you very much for your help and dedication with this site. YOU ROCK!!!!!!
Swagatam says
yes that’s also possible, in fact you can use only the Capacitor for the selection and get different time periods.
sorry I am not too sure about the GSM integration, it will require some thinking…
Andreaas says
Thank you. 🙂
Swagatam says
Andreas, I have updated the design under the following article:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/smart-laser-alarm-protection-circuit/
Andreaas says
Thank you for this site, it is a great help to a great many people.
Swagatam says
Thank you very much Andreas!!
Waseem says
Hello Sir,
Hope you will be good.
I am a big follower of you, will you guide me how i design 2.5kva gasoline generator AVR or please share if you have any circuit related portable generator AVR.
Waiting for your guidance.
Regards,
Waseem
Swagatam says
Thank you Waseem,
Although I am not sure how to control a generator output, it may be perhaps done by controlling the CDI ignition rate through a feedback from the generator output voltage…if possible I may present the concept as a new article.
teguh says
sir how to dim and use 6 or 12 volt batery to drive 50 watt led ( using TL494) thankyou for your attention sorry my bad english.
Swagatam says
You can try the following concept
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/5v-pwm-solar-battery-charger-circuit/
you can remove the coil and associated diode.
manash Athparia says
Hello swag. I am a regular visitor of you blog and it is awesome.
I am trying to make a modified sine wave inverter. I have one unused raspberry pi 3, so I though of using it for generating pwm signal and use it with a square wave inverter. Will it work?
Swagatam says
Thanks Manash, you can use any PWM source to create a modified sine wave, it doesn’t matter whether it is from an ordinary circuit or from a Rashberry pi or Arduino, all will produce similar results
manash Athparia says
But the pwm output voltage is 5v. Can I directly connect it?
Swagatam says
No that will not do, for that you may have to employ the second circuit configuration from the following article
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/arduino-pure-sine-wave-inverter-circuit/
Umar says
Hello!
First of all I’ll appericiate you for your work.you are doing very good job…keep i up!
Second I need a circuit which will need the following paramters.
1. Run the motor after specific interval e.g after each hour.
2. Motor should run off when there motor is not supplying water in upper tank (means dry run protection in upper tank.)
3. If upper tank is full,motor should not run.
4. If there is high or low voltages from a certain voltages than motor should not run.
5. If there is power failure during startup, than motor should start after delaying some certain time when power restores(delay startup).
I hope you can help me on this.
Thanks in advance.
Swagatam says
All these circuits are already published in my website in separate articles, you can search these articles and join them together for fulfilling the specified needs…
Umar says
Thanks for your reply!
I am very initial level hobbiest and could not enough knowledge to merge different circuits according to my requirement. Kindly guide me some so I can up track on my requirements. Or atleast give me list of you articles with guaidence to join these circuits which you think that can fulfills my requirement.
You are doing very good work, and your website lead me to stay on from yesterday and i have bookmarked your website.
Swagatam says
Thanks Umar, appreciate your interest.
I think you should proceed step by step.
for the timer circuit you can try the following design, if you succeed then we can move ahead with the next stages.
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/submersible-timer-circuit-with-pause/
Sandipani Sahoo says
Sir I need ur help
I want to make a 2.5 kW inverter
So sir give ur personal mob no
Madina Shanu says
to u and yr family.
Sr i want to glow up 7000 to 8000 leds with 220 v ac and want them just blinking.
Kindly guide and help me giving a appropriate ckt.
Thanks and best regards in advance
jamil ahmed says
Hello Sir,
My name is Jameel Ahmed
my english is not good.
I want a Electricity Power Saver circuit for Home Application for saving power consumption,
Shivam Chauhan says
hello sir
sir, In my flat there is a problem of light cutoff when alternating current gone. Our building's gate keeper start generator and we have to switch off all extra load (e.g fridge, a.c etc). There is nothing to notify when light comes again. Is their possible to detect generator current/voltage/freq. or alternating current/voltage/freq. . Please help me sir
my gmail id is shivamchauhan20sep@gmail.com