You might have probably come across these fantastic high power, high efficiency LED modules and wondered how do you make these? Here I have explained how to make a 100 watt LED flashlight out of it?
Introduction
The article revises the datasheet of this LED module and explains a simple driver circuit which can be used for operating it safely for the intended lighting purpose.
So far we have learned about LEDs with rather smaller features and applications. However the present article finds out how a LED module in the order of 100 watts can be actually used for illuminating a house at costs probably 5 times lower than the conventional lighting devices.
100 Watt LED Module Image
We have all studied a great deal about LEDs and about their high-efficiency with power consumption.
The LED technology has helped us to design and incorporate very high intensity light installations at minimal consumptions as compared to the other conventional form of lighting concepts.
Lower power consumption also means low heat emissions, which again is an added feature and helps to keep the crucial issue of global warming at bay when LEDs are utilized.
As days pass by, technology keeps on improving and we are able to witness many incredible and unbelievable results with these outstanding lighting devices.
The 100 watt LED module is one such marvel of modern science which has created a breakthrough in the field of LED lighting.
Not surprisingly, the device is able to generate an astonishing 6500 lumens of light intensity at a consumption of mere 100 watts, but the interesting part is the size, which is barely 40 square mm.
The saving made by these devices is estimated to be five times more than any other form of light producing device and the if we compare the specified intensity of 6500 lumens, that corresponds to an excess of 500 watts light power that might be acquired from a halogen lamp.
Let’s discuss the important specifications of this amazing LED in brief and in such a way that even a layman understands:
100 Watt LED Datasheet
Typically the preferred color is white, as that produces the most favorable and desirable illumination for all applications.
- The power consumed is 100 watts for optimal performance.
- The emanated heat for the specified white color is up to 6000 Kelvin.
- The intensity of light generated with the above specs is a staggering 6500 lumens.
- Typical operating voltage of the device is around 35 volts.
- The current required for producing the above light intensity is around 3 Amps.
- ESD level is safe and very high up to 4000 V.
- The safe operating temperature level is very wide, ranging from minus 40 to 110 degrees Celsius.
- The optimum angle of viewing is also wide, up to 120 degree.
- Dimension of the unit is truely mini, the height being 4.3 mm, length 56 mm and width 40 mm only.
Typical Specifications
- LED Type: 100W COB LED
- CRI: Ra70-80/ Ra80-85/ Ra90-95 / Ra95-98
- IF (Forward Current): 3500mA
- VF (Forward Voltage): 29-34volts
- Chip Category: Bridgelux
- Power Output: 100 Watt
- Angle of Beam: 120 degree
- Illumination Magnitude: 10000-14000lm
- Substrate: high-grade copper
- CCT: 3000K, 4000K, 5000K, 6000K.(any CCT can be customized)
- Main application areas: Spotlight, Roving head light, light in stage shows, photography, High intensity rescue floodlight, etc
The specification narrated are sufficient for illuminating a 20 square meter space amply, almost at flood light levels ….. baffling.
Main Features of the 100 Watt LED
The advantages include the following:
High power light output without degradation even after long usages.
Highly robust mechanical specifications, involving less wear and tear and high resistance to changing atmospheric hostilities.
The overall performance is consistently optimal throughout the operating life.
Having discussed the above features of the proposed 100 watt LED lamp, it would be interesting to also learn regarding a useful recommended circuit that may be used for driving or operating the device at safe levels.
How to Make a Current Controlled 100 watt LED flood Light Circuit
A simple two transistor, powerful current limiter, LED driver circuit, which can be used for converting the above discussed device into a 100 watt LED flashlight or to be more accurate, a floodlight is described below:
The circuit of a 100 watt LED flood light shown below has been discussed in few of my other articles also, due its versatile and rather straightforward design; the circuit becomes very suitable in places where current limiting at low costs becomes an issue.
Though the discussed designs mostly dealt with low current applications, the present circuit is specifically intended for handling high currents and up to 100 watts and more power.
Circuit Diagram
Looking at the figure we can see a couple of transistors are coupled together such that the base of the upper transistor T1 becomes the collector load of the bottom transistor T2.
The upper transistor T1 which actually carries the LED current is quite vulnerable itself, and is not equipped to control the amount of current through itself and the LED.
However since the base current of this transistor decides the amount of collector current that can pass, it simply means that by restricting its base current to some safe specified levels, it might be possible to keep the overall consumption within tolerable limits.
A current sensing resistor connected at the emitter of T1 is used to convert the current consumed, into a potential difference, across it. This potential difference becomes the base trigger for R2.
However as long as this voltage is below 0.6 volts or simply below the minimum forward voltage drop of T2, T2 remains unresponsive, but once it starts exceeding this value, triggers T2 which in turn clamps the base voltage of T1, rendering it inactive.
This instantaneous cut off of the base drive to T1 shuts the LED for some fraction of a second, bringing the current and the potential drop across the current limiting resistor to zero.
This action reverts the circuit to its original stance and the LED is again switched ON.
The process repeats a number of times per second to keep the LED and the current to safe and precisely tolerable limits.
The value of R2 is calculated in such a way that it keeps the potential difference across itself below 0.6 volts until the LED current reaches 100 watts, after which the restricting process begins.
Warning: The LED must be mounted on a correctly optimized heatsink as per the specifications provided in its datasheet..
How to Calculate the Constant Current Limiting Resistor
For calculating R1 you may use the following formula:
R1 = (Us - 0.7)Hfe/Load Current,
where Us = supply voltage, Hfe = T1 forward current gain, Load current = LED current = 100/35 = 2.5 amps
R1 = (35 - 0.7)30/2.5= 410 Ohms,
wattage for the above resistor would be = 35 x (35/410) = 2.98 or 3 watts
Formula for calculating R2 is:
R2 = 0.7/LED current
R2 = 0.7/2.5 = 0.3 ohms,
wattage may be calculated as = 0.7 x 2.5 = 2 watts
For an SMPS driver circuit please refer to this article
Ajay Jha says
I mean in what diameter 100 wt led flood light could be available?
Swagatam says
You will have to check the datasheet of the lamp to find the exact diameter.
Howie says
What are the component values to power 3 Lamps using 100 W, and 2 x 50 W lamps?
(i. e. Double the Wattage of the Circuit shown.)
Swagatam says
What will be voltage rating of the LED modules?
raindop says
one question please so this One cob led of 100 watt is consuming around 30-35 volt and 2.8-3.2 amper per hour right? i am wrong in something. also the minimum specs so this led cob can light on what are? thank you in advance
Swagatam says
Your calculations are correct! The minimum specs can be 24V 1 amp, but this is as per my assumptions, I have not verified it practically
raindop says
ok so i have a panel that can totaly light on 4 of that 100 watt led in a serie it means for sure the 3 of them is in full consumption right? and maybe the other one could be lower is is true to give to 4 of them full light means minimum lights on full the 3 of that i am correct thank you
Swagatam says
You have not mentioned your panel specifications? And I can’t understand what exactly you are trying to ask!
raindop says
trying to understand the panel power it can light on 5-6 100 watts in a row we know the volts around 100 can we find somehow amperes?
Swagatam says
You can use Ohms law for the calculations: Current(I) = Watt (W) / Volts(V) = 100 / 100 = 1 amp
raindop says
we know only volts and can light up strongly 5 leds of 100 watt without any problem for hours for that i am asking how to find the watts or amperes to know an estimated
Swagatam says
Please use Ohm’s law for the calculations!
MOHAMED IQBAL IQBAL says
I am actually a B Tech civil engineer, but very much interested in electronic circuits. I assemble small and simple circuits and most of them work, some will not work. I don’t know to trouble shoot the reason for not working the assembled circuits because I am not an electronic engineer and know very less about the theory of working electronic components.
Swagatam says
You will have to learn all the aspects from the beginning, and gradually grasp the theories along with practical experimentation…..this can take a lot of time…
Oga says
Thanks for your response/reply.
I am actually trying to eliminate the driver(ac input) that comes with a 30w/50w led flood light unit and instead power the led flood light module with solar panel output as there is no mains supply in my location.
Guide me to realising this Sir.
I have two solar panels of 120 watts/12V.
Thank you Sir.
Swagatam says
Oga, Please build the circuit which I provided in the link, your problem will be solved
faisal says
hi in need your help in digital TDS meter reading is not stable
Oga says
Sir how do I get 35V from a 12V battery to drive a 50w ac flood light above? Thanks.
Swagatam says
Oga, you can try the following circuit
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/high-power-dc-to-dc-converter-circuit-12-v-to-30-v-variable/
Ritesh Kumar Mohanty says
Thanks Sir,Sir Is the aluminum plate is the heat sink used in this. Circuit?
Swagatam says
yes heatsinks are always made with aluminum, make sure that the aluminum plate is much bigger than the area of the LED measured…you can bend the extra length of the aluminum backwards at 90 degrees to make the design compact
Ritesh Kumar Mohanty says
Thanks Sir,But sir my query is where I can connect heat sink in this given circuit? and what is the specification of heat sink? Plz sir help me.
Swagatam says
Ritesh, I have already explained elaborately in the previews comment, please check the previous replies…
Ritesh Kumar Mohanty says
Sir where I can use the heat sink in this circuit? What is the specification of heat sink?
Swagatam says
use heatsinks for the LEDs and the transistors
Ritesh Kumar Mohanty says
Thanks Sir,Sir how I can get 35 volt from 12volt transformer ?
Swagatam says
as per the shown diagram you will need only 12V, 10 amps for the operating the 102 LEDs
Ritesh Kumar Mohanty says
Thanks Sir, Sir where I should use the heat sink,?And what is the specification of good heat sink,,,?
Swagatam says
first find out how much total area the 102 LEDs would consume. next buy an aluminum sheet, 2mm thick with area as per the LED distribution measurement.
after that mark straight lines on the aluminum and determine the exact spots where the LeDs needs to be stuck on these line
as per the diagram layout start sticking the flat base of the 1 watt LeDs tightly with fevibond, use only fevibond no other adhesive.
make sure that the polarity are perfectly correct.
keep for drying, once hard and dry…start wiring the LED ends as per the diagram…and finally finish the remaining connections also as per the schematic.
test the module with the supply, if all the LEDs light up successfully you can assume that the LED were correctly fixed with no polarity errors, if not then check those specific series connections for the fault.
once everything is fixed, reinforce the LEDs on the aluminum with transparent epoxy glue such as Araldite….keep for drying until hard.
Ritesh Kumar Mohanty says
Thanks Sir, Sir how I can get 35 volt through a 12 v transformer Power Supply.? And how much led I can use for 100watt led? Is it 102 leds ?
Swagatam says
Hi Ritesh, you wanted to use 1 watt LEDs, right? Therefore the shown circuit is designed using many series parallel 1 watt LEDs for creating a 100 watt LED module.
yes 102 LEDs will be required and will need to be connected as shown in the diagram.
Make sure to use a good heatsinking with the whole module.
Shigida says
Sir!
Thankyou so much for your quick respond.
But I want to vary the brightness of 100 watt led ( 100 noes of 1 watt leds)by useing a variable resistance for R2.How can I solve this problem with the new concept that you suggest me?Or for the sake of varying brightness,I have to stick with this circuit and combine it with the circuit of your suggestion?
Swagatam says
Shigida, you can use the the first design from the following article:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-make-current-controlled-12-volt/
Make sure to replace LM317 with LM338, fix Rc value as per the calculations.
And then you can use the voltage control pot for varying the brightness.
use a 22k pot for R2, and use a 24V as the input.
connect the LEDs as explained in the previously linked artilce.
Shigida says
Sir!
instead of a single 100 watt Led,i want to use 100 noes of 1 watt Leds by configuring them in series and parallel appropriately.Is it necessary to calculate and connect a resistor for each of
series line?I think by doing that,i can get a light even iff one of the series line going to burn out.
Isn`t it? Or you mean in this case ,there is no need of this circuit at all.I am confused.help me pls.
Swagatam says
Shigida, a current controller will be required for all high LED circuits, for your application you can try the following concept and apply it as per the available voltage specification
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-1000-watt-led-flood-light/
Webmaster Webnxt-India says
Thanks. Can we use mpp type of capacitor like used in induction motor? These are easily available and cheap too.
Swagatam says
you can use any type, it just needs to be a non-polar and rated at 400V
Webmaster Webnxt-India says
Hi swagatam, is it possible to drive a 100 watt led directly from 220 volt using capacitor based power? As for volt is 32 volt can we put more nos of such 100 watt led to match ouput of capacitor volt. Can capacitor based power supply handle 3 amp of current?
Swagatam says
Hi Webmaster, yes a capacitive power supply can be built for driving a 100 watt LED using the technique that's explained in the following article:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2016/07/scr-shunt-for-protecting-capacitive-led.html
Latif Rajesh Johnson says
Hi, Swagatam,
I happened to come across your circuit and write up as i was trying to find some information for a diy project I am trying. I have a 50 w led chip light. Can I use a 12v 1a ad-dc adaptor to power it? what is the best way to power up the chip light for continous use? Any assistance would be much appreciated.
Swagatam says
Hi Latif, 12V 1 amp cannot be used for driving a 50 watt LED optimally, because 12 x 1 = 12 watts, whereas your LED requires 50 watts.
so please identify the V and I specs of your LED and supply the specified amount power to it, without forgetting a current controller stage in the middle.
vinay praveen says
But where is the circuit diagram
Swagatam says
for the input power you can use either a 35V transformer based power supply or an smps as described below
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2014/09/32-v-3-amp-smps-led-driver-circuit.html
Santhosh SS says
please suggest me to reduce the brightness of the LED
Santhosh SS says
Dear sir,
I had 50W LED but getting much illumination than required so i want to know how to reduce the 50W illumination Please suggest me.
Swagatam says
Santhosh, did you calculate the limiting resistor value correctly as suggested in the above article??
If it's calculated correctly then the LED will safely consumed the required amount of current.
If you provide the voltage and the current specs of your LED I might try to calculate it for you…
Sanskar Rathi says
hey i want to make a circuit of 12V 8A AC/DC to run my project. Also I want it to be as compact as is can one like MVAB120 which is just 2" wide and 4" in lenght. Is it possible to make one my own. ur help is required.
Swagatam says
sorry I do not have a 12V 8A SMPS circuit at the moment….
Unknown says
Hello!
T1;T2 value? Thank you. Great circuit!
Swagatam says
T1 = 2N2222
T2 = 2N3055
9707a392-a733-11e5-ac1d-d7e256602c6e says
Thankyou Sir!I got it.
I will report the result as soon as I finished it.
Swagatam says
OK, thanks
9707a392-a733-11e5-ac1d-d7e256602c6e says
Sir!
still i am waiting of the remote module for this circuit.I hope you didnt forgot it.Thanks.
Swagatam says
thank you for the reminder, I'll try to publish it within a couple of days.
Swagatam says
I have published the article here
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2016/11/remote-controlled-solar-lamp-intensity.html
9707a392-a733-11e5-ac1d-d7e256602c6e says
Thankyou very much sir!your website complitelly changed my hobby.So i want to learn more and more.That is why i dont want to buy anything.Instead i want to
make it.So i will wait till you publish it.
Swagatam says
OK thanks very much!!
Yoram Stein says
What about cooling of both the power transistor and the LED
Swagatam says
you can use a small metal clamp and fix the heatsink with the resistor using screw nuts, make sure the resistor is a wire wound type
Swagatam says
….because the calculated wattage is the approximate breakdown value, below this value the resistor might start burning, so this value will just safeguard the resistor but not stop from heating
Swagatam says
yes, Even if you have calculated it correctly it will still dissipate some heat but might not burn out.
to minimize heat you can either double the wattage value, or add a small aluminum plate with it as heatsink.
beni says
Thankyou very much for your quick respond,According to manufacturer data,the LED has 10 wATT AND 700mlamp.So that means,the max. Voltage is around 14v.but even with this one the brightness is not good.so i put the 5 nos in parallel and connect them with the circuit and with SMPS gave 26v,1.5amp.then the brighteness was good.Is it the right way?one more question:-is it necessary to put a limiting R for each LED or not?
Swagatam says
No it's not the right way…for 5 LEDs in parallel the current input should be equal to 0.7 x 5 = 3.5 amp..or 4 amps
Therefore the input supply source should be rated at 14V 4 amps.
If you use the above explained current limiter circuit then the LEDs will not required individual resistors.
Swagatam says
What is the voltage rating of the LEDs?? if it's 12V then you can put them in parallel and connect the assembly with the above mentioned circuit. The supply will need to be around 12V
francisco rodriguez says
Hi, i have read a lot this post and called my attention.
I bought a 30w 32-36v red LED light(i have burned a few LEDs before) and i want to make the led power supply. I tried and i can't do a good power supply to have the best performance from LEDs.
I used 2 ideas to make a power supply:
1) I have a 220 to ~36v AC transformer from old printer, and a rectified DC voltage around the 50v. The LED has a consumption of about 950 mA(enough from transformer). Besides i have two 2sc3320 from a bad pc power supply, and a few bc547… i tried using a 2sc3320 to make a simple dimmer(first LED burned) but didn't work.
2)i had the idea to rectify from 220v ac… but i think that i will burn another LED
So… wich idea is better to use? and how i can make a circuit for this LED power supply using the things i have?(except by resistors).
Best Regards
-Francisco
Swagatam says
Hi, did you try the concept explained in the above article?
Once the current is limited, the voltage is bound to drop to the preferred limit.
so I would recommend you to use the above circuit with current limit set to 800mA.
for the lower transistor I would recommend a 2N2222, but you can try 2sc3320 also…
while calculating use the value "1.5" instead of "0.7" if you are using 2sc3320 for the lower transistor.
francisco rodriguez says
I thought I'd ask before try to use the circuit.
So… there is no problem with voltage while the current is limited? I can put the LED safely in 50v dc with current limit to 800mA?
Swagatam says
yes there's no problem, make sure to confirm the current by connecting a 10amp DC ammeter at the points where the LED would be connected….it must not show more than 800mA…..and mount the transistors on large heatsinks.
francisco rodriguez says
Okay, thanks!
I'll try it, hence I tell how things go 😀
francisco rodriguez says
I suposse that my T1 must be the 2sc3320 and my T2 the 2n2222?
Swagatam says
OK, that will do, just calculate the parameters as per the given formula….
francisco rodriguez says
Thank you very much it was helpful. I question arises, you could use the same scheme replacing the transistor by a MOSFET?
Swagatam says
yes that's possible, actually I have discussed this elaborately in the comments above with one of the members….please go through it for the details.
Mike Wallace says
Hello, this site is awesome, thank you for it. I have 10 LEDs with a Vf of 3.75V and current handing of 1050mA. I would like to make a few different circuits as follows:
1: run 3 of the LEDs using two 18650 size, 3.7VDC (4.2VDC when fully charged) Li Ion batteries connected in series.
2: run 4 of these LEDs with the same battery setup
3: run 2 of these LEDs using only 1 of the same batteries
4: run 1 of these LEDs using 1 of the same batteries
I would like all 4 of these circuits to maintain the brightness of the LEDs with fully charged batteries all the way through until they need to be charged. I would also prefer these circuits to include reverse polarity protection, battery over-discharge protection and, if possible, thermal protection. I would also like to fit them into a flashlight body if possible (I have a massive assortment of different sized flashlight bodies to choose from). I do have the ability to make and/or order completely custom PCBs and/or flashlight bodies if necessary.
I know this is a lot to ask and I greatly appreciate any assistance you may provide to me.
As always, thank you and have a great day! 🙂
-Mike.
Swagatam says
Hi, I am glad you liked my site!!
Can please you tell me why you need this variable LED light set up? and how do you plan to switch the LEDs, do you prefer to do it manually or should this happen automatically as the voltage drops.
I'll have to address this design through a new article, so please specify the above data.