In this article I have explained how to make a simple RF remote control circuit using ready-made RF 433MHz and 315MHZ RF modules, and without incorporating microcontroler ICs.
With the easy availability of RF modules today making an RF remote control has become a childs play.
It's all about procuring the RF modules ready made from the market by spending a few bucks and configuring them together for the intended results.
Here I'll show you how to make an approximately 100 meter range RF remote control circuit using RF modules, without the help of any microcontroller stage.
To begin the assembly you will have to procure the following readymade RF modules and the respective encoder and decoder chips, for the present project we use the HOLTEKs modules:
RF 433Mhz Transmitter/Receiver Modules
The following picture shows the Rx (left) and the Tx (right) Modules.
The following figure shows the pinout details of the above modules.
Encoder IC = HT12E
Decoder IC = HT12D
The above encoder and decoder ICs do the jobs exactly as per their assigned names that is encode and decode the bit information for enabling easy interfacing with analogue circuits.
After you have procured the above components it's time to put them together.
Assembling the Modules
Configure the transmitter circuit by assembling the Tx (Transmitter) Module with the Encoder IC as given in the following circuit:
Next, assemble the Rx (Receiver) module with the decoder IC, as per the following diagram:
In the above Rx (receiver) circuit we can see that four of its outputs are terminated through LEDs at the points A.B,C,D and another output which is terminated via the VT pinout of the IC.
The four outputs A,B,C,D become high and latched in response to the pressing of the four push buttons shown in the Tx transmitter) circuit.
Pin13 switch of Tx influences the Pin13 output of the Rx and so on....
Suppose when output "A" of the Rx module is activated by the relevant switch of the Tx, it gets latched and this latch breaks only on activating any of the other outputs.
Thus the latch breaks only when a different subsequent output is rendered high through the Tx relevant push buttons.
The output from pin VT "blinks" momentarily every time one of the outputs A,B,C,D get activated. Meaning VT output can be used in case a flip flop is required to be operated.
The above can be very easily interfaced with a relay driver stage for operating any equipment such as a remote bell, lights, fans, inverters, automatic gates, locks, RC models etc.
How to Connect the Address Pins
The pinouts A0-----A7 of the Rx, Tx modules are very interesting. Here we can see them all grounded which creates an impression that these are of no use and are simply terminated to ground.
However these pinouts enable a very useful feature.
These address pinouts can be used for rendering a particular Rx, Tx pair uniquely.
It's simple, let's say for pairing the above modules we ensured that the address pins are identically configured.
Alternatively we could make the above pair unique let's say by opening A0 for both the modules. This will make the pair respond only with each other and never with any different module.
Similarly if you have more number of such pairs and want to make unique pairs out of them, just assign the pairs in the explained manner. You can do this by either connecting the address pins to ground or by keeping them open.
It means by rendering different configurations to the relevant address pinouts between A0 and A7 we can create a huge number of unique combinations.
The range of the above explained RF module is around 100 to 150 meters.
The above simple RF remote control circuit was successfully tested by Mr. Sriram on a breadboard, the following images of the built prototype were sent by him for reference.
Circuit Prototype Images
Making a 433 MHz, 315 MHz RF Remote Control with Relay Flip Flop
Building a hi-end remote control device using very few components today looks pretty plausible. The proposed remote control light switch circuit idea provides you with the opportunity of building and owning this amazing device through simple instructions.
Moreover the unit provides a 4-bit data to be exchanged between the transmitter and the receiver modules.
This Hi-tech remote control light switch enables you to control four individual lights or any electrical appliance for that matter from any corner of your house remotely using a single tiny remote control hand set.
Imagine switching a light, a fan, washing machine, computer or similar gadgets from any corner of your room without taking a step!
Doesn't that sound great?
Controlling a particular gadget remotely through a single flick of your finger definitely feels very amusing and amazing too.
It also gives you the comfort of doing an act without moving or getting up from a particular position.
The present circuit idea of a remote control light switch enables you controlling not only just a single light but four different electrical gadgets individually using a single remote control hand set.
Let’s try to understand its circuit functioning in details of the 433MHz Rx and Tx modules.
Transmitter (Tx) Circuit Operation
I have already discussed the wireless control modules in the above paragraphs, let’s summarize the entire description yet again and also learn how simply the stages may be configured into the proposed unit.
The first figure shows a standard transmitter module using the RF generator chip TWS-434 and the associated encoder chip the HOLTEK’s HT-12E.
The IC TWS-434 basically does the function of manufacturing and transmitting the carrier waves into the atmosphere.
However every carrier signal needs modulation for its proper execution, i.e. it needs to be embedded with a data that becomes the information for the receiving end.
This function is done through its complementing part – the HT-12E 4-bit encoder chip. It has got four inputs, which can be triggered discretely by giving them a ground pulse individually.
Each of these inputs produces coding which are distinctly different to each other and become their unique signature definitions.
The encoded pulse from the relevant input is transferred to the IC TWS-434 which carries forward the data and modulates it with the generated carrier waves and finally transmits it into the atmosphere.
The above operations take care of the transmitter unit.
Receiver (Rx) Circuit Operation
The receiver module does the above operations just in the opposite manner.
Here, the IC RWS-434 forms the receiving part of the module; its antenna anticipates the available encoded pulses from the atmosphere and captures them immediately as they are sensed.
The captured signals are relayed forward to the next stage – the signal decoder stage.
Just like the transmitter module, here too a complementing device the HOLTEK’s HT-12D is employed to revert the received encoded signals.
This decoding chip also consists of a 4-bit decoding circuitry and their outputs.
The received data is appropriately analyzed and decoded.
The decoded information gets terminated out through the relevant pin-out of the IC.
This output is in the form of a logic high pulse whose duration depends on the duration of the ground pulse applied to the encoder chip of the transmitter module.
How to use a Flip-Flop Relay Circuit at the Receiver module Output
The above output is fed to a Flip-Flop circuit using the IC 4017, whose output is finally used to switch the output load via a relay driver circuitry.
One such flip/flop idea is shown you may construct four of them to access each of the generated 4-bit data discretely and control four gadgets individually.
Whether you use it as a remote control light switch or to control many more appliances……the option is all yours.
Hi, I am trying to make a circuit for wireless communication using a 433 Mhz transmitter and receiver with 1 LED connected to each board. The LED on the transmitting board will indicate whether or not the board is tuned on and the LED on the receiving circuit will be activated when a signal is sent.
I would highly appreciate if you could inform me on what materials and equipment I would need in order to build this system.
Hi, the configuration details are provided in the first two circuit diagrams. You just have to build those two circuits for your application, and use one of the four transmitter buttons and the corresponding receiver output. Also, you will need to connect the relevant LED resistor end to the 5V positive supply, A, B, C, or D, whichever corresponds to the selected transmitter button.
I highly appreciate your fast replies Swagatam. I have a few more questions regarding the circuits though.
Would it be possible to make this circuit using PCB’s instead of breadboards? What software did you use to design the schematic circuit diagrams? What are the outputs A,B,C,D and the resistors 1,2,3,4 meant to do when the signal has already been received and shown on each LED, would it not be possible to connect the circuit to the ground after each LED?
Thank you Karl,
Breadboard is strictly not recommend, it should be built only on a well designed PCB.
However designing PCB and assembling the circuits precisely can be quite tedious and complex, therefore I would rather recommend buying tested ready made units instead with all the facilities added.
Here’s an example of the unit matching my recommendation. You can search the following which is available from amazon:
INVENTO 433Mhz Wireless RF Transmitter Receiver Board With HT12D HT12E upto 150 mtr range for DIY Projects
The resistors at A, B, C, D points must be connected to the +5V line otherwise the LEDs will not illuminate.
Thank you so much Swagatam! Please correct me if I am wrong but the list of materials needed to create the wireless communication system (with 1 LED) would be:
What software did you use to create the first two schematic circuit diagrams?
Hi Karl,
Yes all the components are almost correct except the 1 million ohm resistor which is actually a 1 Mega Ohm resistor.
All the resistors can be 1/4 watt 5% CFR and the capacitor can be a ceramic capacitor.
The LEDs can be 3.3 V, 20 mA, 5 mm type.
I used CorelDraw.
Thank you so much Swagatam! I cannot explain to you how grateful I am that you have helped me.
Thank you Karl, It’s my pleasure!
Would a 4.5 volt battery also work?
5V is the recommended supply input, 4.5V might not be sufficient.
Would I be able to take apart the different parts of the circuit without damaging any of them from the link you provided above?
What is the meaning of the parts on the encoder and decoder labelled A0 – A7?
That wouldn’t be advisable. If you want to assemble the whole circuit individually, then I would recommend getting all the spare parts separately.
A0-A7 are address pins. The configuration of these pins that you use on the transmitter board must be exactly replicated on the receiver board also so that they can be paired with each other and they correspond correctly with each other.
Do you know where I would be able to find these parts?
You can get these mostly from amazon.
For the PCBs needed to actually combine all the components together, would I need to design the PCB myself or is there a prototype like PCB which I can purchase and use to create the circuit?
I think you will have to design your own PCB design, ready made PCBs may not available. Or you can contact a professional PCB designer for the job. However ready made pre-assembled boards might be available.
Would it be difficult to learn the necessary soldering skills in order to combine all the components of the wireless communication system together?
If you are a newcomer to electronics then it can be very difficult to learn everything from the start and assemble this circuit.
where could I learn how to assemble this circuit?
Learning electronics is a long long process which cannot be mastered within a few days. First you must try building small noncritical circuits successfully, once you are well versed with the soldering and the troubleshooting them, only then you must try assembling critical circuits like the above.
There are many you tube videos where you can learn how to solder correctly.
How long would it take to only learn the skills that are necessary to make this circuit?
It is impossible to learn good soldering without practising. The time depends on how well you learn the process by assembling many small circuits.
Even if you learn soldering and assemble the above circuit, and if it has problems how will you troubleshoot it?
Would it be possible to practice assembling this circuit until it worked?
Yes that may be possible.
If the circuit were to be operated at 12 volts what would I need to change about the components I am already using such as the capacitors and the resistors?
The circuit needs to be operated strictly with a 5V supply, if you have a 12V supply then you will need to drop it to 5V using a 7805 regulator IC. Nothing else needs to be changed in the circuit.
So the 7805 regulator would be placed in between the 12v supply and the rest of the circuit?
Yes that’s correct. Here’s an example setup using 9V as the input. You can ignore the capacitors they are not required.
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/7805-power-supply-circuit.jpg
And the 7805 voltage regulator IC would also work for a 12v supply?
Yes, it can handle 12V… it can work with input DCs upto 30V.
Im guessing that I would not be using a typical 12v battery so what would I be using as the 12v supply instead
You can use any DC source that you may access to.
Why is there a mega ohm resistor between the 2 open sound controls in the first schematic?
That’s as per the standard configuration of the circuit. You may have to refer to the datasheet of the IC to get more info about it.
Would it be possible for me to send you the adapted circuit diagram I created and have you check if everything is correct?
You can send it to my email address, which is given in my contact page. I will check it…
I saw your diagrams in my email. You have short circuited the ground line the Vcc line or the positive line of the circuit.
Make sure the 7805 ground pin and the input DC ground supply are connected only with the circuit’s ground line, and not with the positive line.
In short, please isolate the 7805 ground supply from the positive line.
Hi Swagatam, would it be possible for you to show me how the schematic circuit diagram should be drawn?
Hi Karl, please see the diagram below, and do the connections as given in the diagram:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/7805-connections.jpg
I do not know where I would connect the negatively charged wire and where I would connect the positively charged wire. would it be possible if you could draw out the circuit diagram? I would greatly appreciate it.
Are you able to get 5V output from your 7805 regulator?
If yes, then you simply have to do the following.
Can you see the points marked as “GND” in the diagram? Those are the negative points, so the negative wire from the 7805 power supply will connect with these GND points.
And the +5V from the 7805 will connect with the points marked as +5V in the circuit diagram.
Please let me know what exactly you can’t understand in the above explanation, I will try to help further.
Hi. I want to make 433 Hz Jammer circuit with a range of 75-100 m. Can you help me with regards to that please?
Hi, sorry, presently I do not have this specific circuit design with me.
hi
i need schematic diagram rf 315/433 mhz remote control tester
you have schematic for tester remote control
i need check frequency remote control with tester
best regard
Hi, you can try building the following circuit for measuring the frequency:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/frequency-meter-circuit-using-arduino/
Hi Swagatam,
I am trying to build a 433MHZ wireless alert that triggers a music chip ic to play one of 12 different melodies each time someone enters my front porch area. The ic is triggered by a falling edge signal. The PIR that I am trying to use is an AM312. It triggers on for 2 seconds and has a blocking time of 2 seconds. I am trying to have the circuit only trigger one of the twelve melodies each time a new person approaches my front porch. The way it is now the music chip advances each time it is triggered due to the 4 second combined delay. So when a person approaches it triggers and triggers again while the person is still in the area. I have tried to figure out some way to delay the retriggering with no luck. I used a 104/105 capacitor with 1m resistors to ground inline with the PIR output which sort of worked, but retriggers when the capacitor drains off. I’m sure if there is a way to use the PIR selected, you will be able to figure it out. I am attaching two sizes of my schematic as I don’t know how they are displayed on you computer. I am also posting my problem under one of your 433mhz wireless topics on your site. Thanks for your time and expertise!
Hi Norman, I guess you want the relay not to respond to the OFF times of the PIR triggers, and remain switched ON continuously, as long as the PIR is pulsing?
This can be probably solved using the following diode/capacitor timing network at the base of the relay driver transistor:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/relay-chatter-prevent.png
Hope it works.
Hi, is there any circuit available to stop the system latching, when the MOM switch is pressed regards Brian
Hi, the momentary On/OFF option is already provided in the remote control handset.
Hello Mr.Swag, I want build this circuit, but i have question.
I want this circuit work like this , if the switch transmitter S1 ON ,the receiver is ON, if S1 is OFF the receiver is OFF.
How to modified circuit . Thanks
Hello Sarwana, it is supposed to work exactly in that way!
Ok, thanks for answer. You very fast respon to answer question. I appreciate what you do. Godbless you Mr.Swag
You are welcome Sarwana!
Hi , to start , I love the site and appreciate what you do!
How would I add a throttle to the remote? Like a thumb throttle! If the throttle used a 10k pot to vary 5v
from 0-5 I would think I’d convert it to pwm to transmit over the RF , Then I’d have to do the reverse on the receiver end. My ESC is voltage regulated not PWM. I originally wanted to use a wired throttle but I’d have to attach and detach it for each use ( assembly is in 2 parts) then I could leave the remote attached to one part and the receiver on the other !
Pete
I should mention part 2 of this in that I’d also need the max power to be delayed over 2 seconds even it the throttle is swung up to max, I need the power to be applied smoothly!
thanks in advance
Pete
You can try the soft start design as the PWM generator for the transmitter, this might solve your 2nd problem also:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/pwm-motor-soft-start-circuit/
Hi, yes that’s possible.
As you can see the transmitter inputs are configured with ON OFF switches, which means those pinouts are designed to accept logic high low signals. You can select any one of these pinouts to send the PWM to the transmitter. The PWM circuit can be built with any standard IC 555 circuit.
I am not sure why the reversal is needed at the receiver side, but if you need it, you can do it with a simple BJT inverter circuit, using a PNP BJT
The reason I asked about the reverse is because I ordered a pre-built remote that does reverse. The receiver has 3 leads coming out 5v,gnd and pwm signal! I can’t figure how they get a reverse. Hmm unless they use 0-50% of the PWM for forward speeds and 51-100% for reverse.
Thanks
Pete
Yes, just remembered that the receiver (Rx) does produce 0V logics in response to high logics from the transmitter, in that case you will have to use a PNP transistor inverter stage for reversing the logics.
OK i just realized the TX-RX units would have to be paired as I might have many units in close proximity and its of utmost importance that they is NO interference!
I think with these rx-tx units the can be assigned a channel but it won’t be exclusive!
Would a blutooth system work like I want and is it very complicated!
Pete
As far as I know, the address pins of the Tx/Rx ICs can be configured uniquely for creating exclusive Tx/Rx pairings, as explained in the above article. Bluetooth can be also applied for the same.
sir can i use kits from toy car (remote control) for this purpose.
means for inverter on/off, charging on/off
Hi shankar, yes you can do that!
Can I use the same circuit with 12 volt supply as i am using 12v dc motors in my project and i want to start those motors remotely or some more things need to be ad in this circuit.
you can use 12v for the motor but you will have to step down the 12 V to 5v using 7805 IC for operating the IC circuits.
Do you know how much latency (ms) there is between transmitter input (switch closure) to receiver output?
I have a timing application and need minimal latency OR simply to know how much latency (if it’s consistent).
Thanks in advance.
Hello sir Swagatam,
Nice update on your website!
Please do you have any article on your website on ESP8266 Wi-Fi module or associated circuit? If you do, kindly help me with the link.
Thank you.
Hello Godson, presently I do not have the mentioned article, if possible I’ll to investigate and update it.
Hello sir Swagatam,
Thanks a lot for the correspondence the past days.
Please I need your help on the following:
1. I need the part number to encoder and decoder ICs (that works exactly like HT-12E and HT-12D) that has more than 4 output pins, and that can work with the RF modules in the schematic above. I’ve searched the internet without success.
2. I need the part number to an IC or ICs (preferably 400series ICs) that works like CD4017. The IC should have different clock input pins and their corresponding output pins in the same IC, such that when a clock pulse is received in one of the clock inputs, it turns on its output and turns off any other output that may have been turned on before it. i.e only one output stays on at a time and any of the input may receive their signals separately.
I can also make do of an IC that can receive continuous positive or negative signals in its input and and activate its corresponding output and turn off any other output that was previously turned on before it.
I know that I can achieve this using PICs but I have no knowledge in programming.
Your response will be well appreciated sir.
Hi Godson,
you can try searching “433 MHz 4 channel module” might help you to find an alternative for the HT modules
for flip flop versions, you could look for IC 4022, or IC4013, here are a couple of links that you could investigate
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/make-this-easiest-flip-flop-circuit/
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/build-these-simple-flip-flop-circuits/
Thanks a lot for the reply sir. The links were helpful. I will make use of IC4013 flip-flop to achieve what I want to achieve.
I found an 8channel 433MHz encoder and decoder modules on the internet after a long search. Their part names are HT640 and HT648L.
You are welcome Godson, you can look for “Linx” RF modules
Hello sir Swagatam,
Thanks a lot for this circuit. I have built it and it’s working well with a good range too. I have a challenge though. I want to use the circuit to operate four relays through the four channels, using a transistor driver stage, in such a way that when one button is pressed in the Tx session, the corresponding relay in the Rx session stays activated until the button is released.
From what I observed after testing, the configuration works in active-low mode. The output of the Rx IC is low on receiving the signal from Tx and high when no signal is received. I have tried connecting it to a transistor driver stage using BC557 transistor, but it didn’t work. I also tried BC547, the same result. The relays latch on even when no button is pushed. Kindly suggest a solution to the problem.
Anticipating your usual prompt response.
Thank you sir.
Hi Godson, did you connect LEDs with the outputs? if not please do it. LED will give a clear indication regarding the response from the output pins.
BC557 should work, make sure you have connected its pinouts correctly.
The supply to the relay should come from a 12V source while the supply to the IC should come from a 5V source.
Hello sir Swagatam,
Thanks a lot for the prompt reply. I have done exactly as you said and I am still experiencing the same problem.
Here is the situation:
•For testing purpose, I connected the cathodes of the LEDs to the output of the Rx IC and their anodes to the 5V supply. The LEDs turned on and off as the buttons are pressed and released in Tx.
•But as soon as I connect the anodes of the LEDs to the 12V supply via resistors, they remain turned on (though a little faint) even when no button is pressed in the Tx. When a button is then pressed in Tx, the corresponding LED becomes brighter while others go off.
•This same situation plays out when I connect the BC557 through the LED as shown in the schematic above. The LED is turned on faintly when no button is pressed in Tx, which in turn turns on the BC557, and consequently, the relay stays on. I have tried increasing the value of the base resistor of BC557 but no change. When I increase the resistor to a point, the BC557 is not turned on at all.
It appears as though the outputs of the Rx IC is “leaking” when connected to the 12V supply.
What can be the cause of this problem and what solution can you profer?
Hello Godson,
I am sorry…that’s right, the BC557 will be always ON since it is continuously getting the biasing voltage through the 5V – 12V = -7V, that’s seriously wrong.
In this situation please use two BC547 in inverter mode, as shown in the following example image:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/lowbatteryindicatorcircuit-2.png
Replace the LED/resistor with relay coil/diode….make sure to connect the relay to the +12V supply, while connect the remaining left side positive line with +5V.
ignore the preset and the 33K resistor, and connect the left side BC547 base with the IC’s LED/resistor output.
Let me know if you have any more doubts
Thank you very much for the response sir.
I have connected the outputs of the Rx with the circuit shown in link that you provided. I removed the 47k pot and the 33k resistor on the left and connected the output of the Rx IC through the LED/resistor, to the BC547 at the left. But the result is the same. The relay stays on whether a button is pressed or not. I removed the second 33k resistor in the middle and the relay stays off even when button is pressed in Tx.
I then decided to use only one BC547 with a 1k base resistor, and the relay stays on when no button is pressed, and goes off whenever the corresponding button is pressed. But that is not how I want the circuit to work. I want the relay to turn on only when a button is pressed.
I believe that there must be a solution to the issue.
Hi Godson, please remove the LED from the IC output pin and connect it at the base of the right side transistor. please see the modified design below:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/remote-test.png
Wow!
It’s working perfectly well now after I implemented the modified design of the transistor driver. Thank you so much for your assistance sir. Keep up the good work!
Glad it’s working Godson, keep up the good work!
Hi Swagatam
is it possible to connect a visual display like LCD wireless without any microcontroller?
thanks in advance
Hi Abba,
visual display can be connected, but what do you want to send in this display? or what do yo intend to see in the display?
Hello swagatam,
awsome site, im glad I stumbled upon and well written, TY
my question is for the pin outs,
I see in the actual pic of modules the Tx has identifiers on the back side witch matches your drawn pic for pin id, does the Rx module have to same identifiers on its back side ?
if not, is your drawn pic of pin identifiers done by viewing the Rx from its back side (none circuit side) ??
just like the Tx reference..
TYTY in advance, P1nki3
Thanks P1inki3, really glad you liked my site.
The pinouts are identified from the top view, please refer to the following article, I think this might help you to get it correctly
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/rf-remote-control-encoder-and-decoder/
Thank u Sir for this information..
Nee some help and advise based on this circuit.
Im working on a micro rc plane which will be controlled using 2 motors. The Tx will have 2 joyticks one for throttle which controls speed for both motors and one which will speed up each of the motors depending on joystick position.
My questions are.
1) Can i use the above circuit for the same and what modifications would i have to make for joystick and motors. Will this circuit accomodate PWM signals?
2) Can i use potentiometers as my joysticks or any other alternatives?
3) can the range on the RF modules be increased? Would an antenna help substancially?
Deeply appreciate ur help in these matters
My email is rohandsequeira@gmail.com
Thank u Sir.
Hi Rohan,
yes you can connect PWM and pot control with the above RF module Rx unit, and control the motor output at the Tx side accordingly, but I am not sure how a joystick could be configured with a pot?
The range can be increased by increasing the Tx antenna length using a 1 meter flexible wire or a telescopic antenna.
I have already discussed a similar concept in the website, you can refer to the following link for a better understanding of the concept:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2015/10/quadcopter-remote-control-circuit.html
Sir, can i use this circuit with pwm signals to have a potentiometer instead of switches at tx end and use the pwm signals to drive motors at rx end? Would the same circuit work?
What i i want to drive 2 motors and change the speed of each motor or wen shut one off and let tw other run.. How do i modify this circuit for that?
Also what beat range will i get from the 433rf units if i attach the 17.34cm antenna on both ends?
Much appreciate all the infprmation.
Thank u Sir.
hello swagatam i'm shubham
i build the circuit using rf technology with pic controller to turn on the light through relay
when i press the key from the transmitter side there is no quick repose across the receiver to turn the light on i need to press the key continuously for more then 5 times after that it is turning on so
sir im not able to find out the problem is this problem causing by the hardware or by the software and i tried with different baud rates like 9600bps and 4800bps so sir how i can avoid this problems please suggest something
Hello Shubham.
If it's a MCU based then it could be difficult to troubleshoot through assumptions, since the problem could be obviously in the software section or the coding.
If you have programmed it then I think it shouldn't be much difficult for you to track it down
Output rx i use PNP transistor and connected to 4017 14pin means it will work sir…
yes it will work
Hai sir….
I have few ? Sir…
When Tx 1 button active means Reciever output D0 output will be postive or negative..
For one tx pressing second it will work or it will latch it sir
I'm going to use this circuit in CD4017..
.If Rx D0 o/p postive means shall i connect 14 pin in cd4017…
In the between of 4017 14 and RX DO pin i use one diode IN4007…is it correct sir…
Whether the D0 o/p negataive means shall i 470ohms resistor and 557 transistor…
Pls give the solution sir..
Hi Kesava…in the above circuit the output from the Rx was tested to be negative when triggered…and positive normally when not triggered.
you can connect the 4017 pin#14 directly with RX outputs but due to the opposite effect the 4017 flip flop will toggle only when you press and release the Tx button.
do not connect any diode or resistor in between the Rx output and 4017 pin#14.
….your ebay link RF modules are OK….
Hey, how do I do that when I turn on the light in the room, the LED output is on and when I turn off the light in the room, is turns off the LED output? TX module wanna be powered directly from the light. That is, when I turn off the light, TX module power is off and also the state of the RX LED changes. Thank you.
I could not understand your requirement.
…you can do it by replacing the switch points with BC547 Collectors/emitters.
the bases could be connected at the junction of an LDR and a 220K resistor. 220K end would go to the ground…and the LDR end to 5V supply
hey how hard can it be to make the same job from scratch i mean using oscillators , modulation circuits , antenna … in much lower frequencies 5 mhz ?
almost impossible, even if it's made it would'nt work as efficiently as the above explained design
Well Sir, I just breadboarded your circuit an could not light any of the four LED…A,B,C,or D..The led for VT blinks so I know there is some transfer, but I am not sure what to do next.
Caleb, check the polarity of the LEDs, it must be exactly as shown in the diagram….by the way unless the points A,B,C,D are connected with some source the LEDs will not show any response….so make sure these are connected to a transistor driver stage…… or for testing purpose you can connected them with the supply rail of the circuit.
how to make remote for toggling mode for controlling home appliances
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2016/06/control-8-appliances-with-single-remote.html
Thank you very much Swagatam!
I will try this out at once and let you know the result.
You are welcome Henriks
Dear Swagatam,
I really enjoy your site. Thank you.
I have built your RF circuit (Simple RF Remote Control Circuit without Microcontroller).
I work well. The led light up when a button on the transmitter is pressed.
I would like to add a relay to each output on the receiver which should be latched until the respective button on the transmitter is pressed again (On/Off).
What do I have to add/modify in order to make this work?
If I set the address like this:
Transmitter pin 1-8 to ground
Receiver one of the pins 1-8 not to ground and turn on the power an led on the receiver lights up and keeps so until I change the address.
How does that come?
Thank you in advance,
Henrik
Thank you Henrik!
To latch a relay you may have to employ a flip flop circuit, such as a 4013 flip flop
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2012/05/make-this-easiest-flip-flop-circuit.html
remove all that's connected with the CLK pin and connect this directly with the relevant Rx output pin.
I am not sure why the LED lights up with a different address pin configuration, may be it's trying to indicate that the Address pins of the Tx/Rx do not match each others….
many thanks, can you suggest a suitable npn transistor?
it will depend on the current consumption spec of the circuit, if it's below 1 amp you can use a 2N2222
Heelo Mr SWAGATAM MAJUMDAR, can you please inform if is possible use your example, but running in 16 outputs not 4 outputs, like this post? regards
Hi Paulo, yes you can use the same set-up for a 16 channel Rx/Tx module also, just repeat the suggested configuration for the all 16 i/p, o/p pins
Hello Swagatam,
I wish to use the output of VT to close a small 12v circuit but I do not want to use a relay. Can you tell me the voltage and current at VT when the signal is received? I want to try and use an SCR to close the 12v circuit
Hello Dan, you can connect the free end of the 360 resistor with the base of a NPN transistor, and connect the emitter of the transistor with the ground rail.
Next you can connect the 12V circuit between the (+12V rail) and the collector of the NPN, and make sure that you join the 12V negative with the 5V negative of the above circuit
an SCR will latch permanently….so it might not be suitable
sir can we put power amplifer for long rang up to 1km to 2km for my rcplane
sorry that may not be possible with this module
Hello sir.. I have to do rf remote controll transmitter and receiver. At receiver i have to use Pic16f877a and to drive motor on the rf remote controll. What should i do? Please suggest me.
Hello Vicky, I am not good at programming MCUs so this won't be possible from my side…..
Hello, very thanks for the post!!! If i need to make one project using your idea with hts 12 to control 16 relays, is it possible? can you show me one simple application of these if is possible? regards
yes it's possible if the module supports 16 outputs ports.
normally this circuit is used to give latched output.Means works as a toggle switch or oN/OFF switch.Can we use some outputs as On when pushbutton is pressed & Off when pushbutton is released.
What do we call such output technically?
this feature and a few more can be found included in ready made units, you just have to tweak the given connector modes and get the required features. You may find this in the unit as shown below
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2012/08/how-to-buy-and-use-rf-remote-control.html
cai i use HT12D or HT12E for RF315 modules.
I am not sure about that, better to buy it ready made
thank u
dwagatam ji i checked the circuit .
this problem is present for every car center lock.
i need solution for RF 434.
can i add circuit on RF 434 module to remove noise.
or i can replace RF434 with RF 315..
i want to use RF modules .
here is any solution or upgradation of circuit.
thanx.
Prashantji, so does it mean jamming car remote systems is so easy? It looks very strange.
anyway, as far as modifying is concerned these remote units are embedded units and cannot be modified in anyway, so there's no external solution available for the issue.
yes you can try replacing it with RF315 this could make a difference…
thank u swagatam ji .
plz send me link of fm based ordinary transmitter and receiver circuit.
fm base transmitter and receiver can give code for different systems.
and 40 meters range in home conditions.
Prashantji, the circuit which I am referring is an ordinary FM transmitter and FM radio circuit which are modified as a remote control…the details are given here.
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2011/12/how-to-make-fm-remote-control-using-fm.html
thank u swagatam ji .
plz send me link of fm based ordinary transmitter and receiver circuit.
Dear swagatam ji actual problem with RF receiver and transmitter is.
we r making water pump controllers for domestic pumps using RF 434 with coding ht12e and ht12 d.
problem is if i fix wireless system at any home.
the wireless works properly .
but its range effect jam all the center lock of car in range.( centeral lock remote not work till RF434 on).
what is the prob with RF434 mhz
i m use red modules with rohs approved.
Prashantji, Then it's the problem of your car remote control, you should complain this to your dealer from where you purchased the car security system….because these units are supposed to be immune to all forms of RF waves which are not directly matching their specified wave frequency.
or possibly you can quit the RF module remote control for the water level controller and use an FM based ordinary transmitter.receiver circuit which will not interfere with your car system
Dear swagtam ji
I m using this circuit
Rf434mhz with ht12e and ht12d.
Here is big problem.
If we supply the receiver and transmitter .
Car centeral locking system remote not works in wireless range.
Plz send me solutions
Dear Prashantji,
First try it on table and confirm the working, after this you can try it inside the car.
Put a long antenna with the receiver unit, this could be a two meter long flexible wire joined with the existing antenna of the Rx unit.
This module Is that possible to use in helicopter, drone?
yes if it's upgraded with a joystick facility
sir help me about one light off because suply off automatically but again supply on second light on not a light first.these drawback remove .why?
do you mean to say that you want the outputs to latch and hold when the relevant remote buttons are pressed?
sorry that may not be possible in this module, you may have to buy ready made modules which normally include a selection option for the output modes.
Hi Bruno, you can get it from any online parts dealer.
for getting a positive logic you will need to invert the output by using NPN transistors across the 4 outputs or by using NOT gates.
four led connected by using rf remote control switch,first light on after sometime supply off but again supply on swtich on light second glow not a first light why.this drawback remove name of component remove from this circuit
sorry, your English is difficult to understand please explain in proper English.
Hi Majumdar! can you tell me were i can buy the tx and rx modules?on rx module it is possible to have outputs with ground connection pulse?
regards, Bruno
My decoder is not giving vt op
My receiver decoder is not getting vt op led is not blinking
i'm working on the amplifier but it is hard to find transistors working at 433mhz frequency, developing a transmitter module operating at fm band as receiver boards are readily available, i need fm transmitters with crystal oscillators, any crystal fm bug circuit sir ?
thank you for the valuable information Seelamseti, I hope it helps the interested readers.
sir range can be increased by rf wide band amplifier at transmitter side we can increase its range ,without modifying circuit simply use an 12volts pencil cell for the transmitter(cell used in car centre locking system) i referred the data sheet for 12volts db is increasing
hi
is the ABCD output enough to be valid logic 1 for logic circuits?
yes, all are 5V compatible
Hello Sir,
can you guide me an simulator software where i test this circuit.I use proteus 7.8 but there is no RF module in its library.. can you guide me.. kindly reply me thank you
I am sorry, I don't have much idea about simulators software, because I never use them….they are not worth trusting